Which silk scarf size should you choose: 53, 65, 70, or 90 cm?

In short: you don't choose a silk square by colour, but by size. Small squares (53-55 cm) are tied around the neck, wrist or in the hair. Medium squares (65-70 cm) are the most versatile: neck, headband, bag handle. Large squares (90 cm) are worn as a shawl, turban or over the shoulders. Here's how to decide, use by use.

Every October, it's the same ritual. We take out the squares put away since spring, tie one around our neck before going out, and think we need another one. Then we look at the product pages and stumble over a number: 53, 55, 65, 70, 90. We choose the colour in three seconds. We hesitate over the size for days.

And yet it is what determines everything. A square that is too small won't hold the knot you had in mind; a square that is too large will create volume that overwhelms a slender figure. Here are my guidelines, the ones I use for myself and the ones I give when people ask me what to buy as a gift.

Why size matters more than anything else

A silk square has no cut, no size, no lining. It has only a dimension and a drape. Everything it can do - and everything it cannot do - follows from these two things.

The rule is simple: the knot uses up fabric. A sailor's knot at the neck takes about fifteen centimetres of the diagonal; a turban requires much more. What remains after the knot is what you see. A 53 cm square tied tightly around the neck becomes a discreet, neat ribbon. The same gesture on a 90 cm square becomes a bib.

Second thing: silk is fluid, not rigid. It doesn't create volume; it drapes. So a large size never looks "too much" the way a wool scarf might - it drapes. That's useful to know when you're hesitating to go up a size.

The four square families

Choose by use, in one minute

• For everyday wear around the neck: 65 cm. Enough material for a proper knot, but little enough to disappear under a coat collar.
• For your hair, as a headband: 53 or 55 cm. Fold it diagonally and tie it, and the point stays narrow. Any larger, and the headband becomes a turban.
• For a turban or full coverage: 90 cm, without hesitation. Medium sizes slip as soon as you move.
• For a bag: 53 cm. Tied to the handle, it should stay neat; a large square hangs down.
• For the shoulders, at the end of the evening: 90 cm, folded into a triangle. It's the only size that really works.
• For gifting, when you don't know the person's preferences: 65 or 70 cm. These are the sizes you won't regret.

A word about the material, because size does not tell you everything

Two squares of the same size can behave very differently. What makes the difference is the silk - and its weight, measured in momme. A 16-momme square is light and airy, perfect for hair and delicate knots. The higher the momme, the more body the silk has and the better it holds a fold. If this unit is unfamiliar to you, we have devoted an entire article to it: momme, the unit that changes everything when buying silk.

Then there's the question of satin. At Studio, we offer both, and we say it clearly: satin is a weave, not a fiber. A polyester satin square shines beautifully and costs much less; it does not breathe like mulberry silk and does not age in the same way. For a square worn against the skin of the neck all winter, I choose natural silk. For a colored square you want to try without committing, satin works perfectly well.

And in October, does it keep you warm?

Let's be honest: a silk square is not a winter scarf. Silk is temperature-regulating - it limits temperature fluctuations, wicks away moisture, and does not feel cold when you sweat under a coat - but it does not insulate like thick wool. In October, in France, a 70 cm square tied around the neck under a trench coat is more than enough. In January, wear it under your scarf, not instead of it.

That's actually its best role in transitional weather: the lightweight layer you add in the morning and remove at the office without having to carry anything on your arm.

The care that extends its life

A silk square should be hand-washed in cold water with a mild soap. Don't wring it out: press it in a towel, then dry it flat, in the shade. If a crease sets in, a low-temperature iron on the reverse side is enough. Squares with hand-rolled edges handle this routine very well, year after year. Full details are in our care guide.

One last practical tip: store your squares folded flat or loosely rolled, not hanging from a thin hanger. Silk retains the mark of whatever stretches it.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most versatile silk scarf size?

The 65 cm size. It allows for a neck knot, a bandana, a wide headband, and a bag tie without compromising any of these uses. It's the size I recommend for a first square.

What size silk square do you need for a turban?

At least 90 cm. A turban requires enough fabric to wrap around several times and stay in place without slipping. The 65 and 70 cm sizes work for a wide headband, but not for a full turban.

Does a large square create too much volume on a slender figure?

No, because silk drapes rather than adding bulk. A 90 cm square folded diagonally and then tied low remains surprisingly discreet. If you're still unsure, 70 cm is the ideal middle ground.

Should you choose mulberry silk or satin?

Mulberry silk for a piece worn often and for a long time, against the skin: it breathes and develops a patina. Polyester satin for trying out a color or pattern at a lower cost. These are two different uses, not two qualities of the same product.

How do you know which size to give as a gift?

65 or 70 cm. These are the two sizes that work with the widest range of ways to wear them, so they're the least likely to end up sitting in a drawer.

Taking it further

Once you've chosen the size, the most fun part remains: learning how to tie it. We've put together eight ways to tie a silk square, from a discreet ribbon to a shoulder drape.

And if you want to compare the sizes side by side, including their weights and finishes, everything is gathered in our collection of silk scarves and squares.

— Awa, for the StudioSoie Journal